There are many things you can do to prevent pests from getting into your home. Here are some key suggestions and recommendations:

  How to Get Rid of Spiders
Although many homeowners struggle with do it yourself spider control remedies the results are often less than satisfactory. Small problems can develop into large ones and this is when many people seek out the services of a pest control professional.

However, it is possible to reduce these risks by taking sensible precautions when outdoors and ensuring that wasp or bee nests are properly managed.
  Treating insect stings
Insect stings are uncomfortable and can often be distressing particularly if suffering from several stings.
However, the risks of being stung can be minimized by destroying wasp nests in or near the home and taking some basic precautions when outside.
  Allergies to Insect Stings
Some people are much more sensitive to insect stings than others and young children tend to be particularly sensitive.

However, three percent of the population are extremely allergic to the insect stings. An allergy to insect stings can develop at any time, even if they have not reacted to a previous sting.

Call an ambulance immediately if someone has a severe reaction to an insect sting.

Symptoms may include fainting, dizziness, nausea or difficulty in breathing or swallowing.
  Symptons of an allergic reaction
For those with a moderate allergy to stings, there may be more general swelling around the wound. Consult your doctor if the swelling is severe or persistent.

Call an ambulance immediately if any of the following symptoms are seen within 30 minutes of a sting:

Swelling around the throat, mouth or tongue that could constrict breathing
Wheezing, choking or an inability to catch breath
Fainting, dizziness or headaches
Any chest pains
Nausea or stomach cramps
Remember, allergies to stings can develop at any time.

Those stung on two or more occasions in previous years are at higher risk from developing an allergy.

Another group at high risk are those who suffer from other allergies (such as to pollen or pets).

  Insect stings should not be confused with insect bites.
An insect (wasp, hornet, etc) stings to defend itself when it perceives a threat either to itself or the colony. It stings by injecting poison into or under the skin. The effect is immediate and results in a sharp, burning sensation.

While some insects sting to defend themselves, others (like mosquitoes) , bite to draw blood. To give the insect time to feed, insect bites have evolved so that the pain is not as sharp as a sting (although the bite of a horse fly is very painful).
  Insect Stings
The most common stinging insects are wasps (including hornets) or bees. Wasps are the most aggressive and may sting with little provocation.

Bees are much less likely to sting, usually when they are stood or sat on. The key sign of a bee sting is that it leaves its stinger lodged inside the skin and a venomous sac will continue to pump poison for more than a minute.

In contrast, the only sign of a wasp or hornet sting is likely to be a small puncture hole.

Once stung by a wasp or bee, the surrounding area will quickly redden and a raised welt will form. The welt will lessen after a few hours, but it may remain itchy for more than a day.
  Treating an Insect Sting
There are practical steps recommended if you are stung by an insect.

If stung by a bee, remove the stinger promptly. This should be done carefully using tweezers. Take great care not to squeeze the sting sac as this will inject more poison into the wound.

If stung by a bee or wasp, wash the wound with soap and water and then reduce swelling by soaking in cold water or by covering it with a cold compress such as ice in a cloth (but never hold ice directly on the skin).

To relieve itching, apply an anti-histamine cream for bites and stings or take an oral anti-histamine tablet (a “hayfever tablet”).

Calamine lotion can also be applied ease the itch. If the itching is severe, consult your pharmacist or pharmacist.
  Preventing Insect Stings
People who are sensitive to insect stings should take care to minimize the risk of being stung, but there are practical steps that we can all take.
  To avoid being stung when outdoors:
Try not to swat wasps or bees. This will only agitate the insect.

Do not wave your arms and try not to panic as this will also excite the insect. If you enter an area with many stinging insects, walk calmly and slowly away.
  Stinging Insects in the Home or Garden
If there are high numbers of wasps or bees in your home or garden, it is likely there is a nest nearby.

It is important to deal with nests as early as possible – wasps become more aggressive in late summer and it is much safer to deal with them earlier in the year.

The nest is made from chewed wood that gives them their distinctive papery walls. Queens build small nests in the spring and lay the first batch of eggs. These quickly develop into workers that soon take over nest building activities for the remainder of the season.

By mid summer, wasp nests can reach considerable size. Some nests can be the size of basketballs or even larger! Common sites for a wasp nest include under the roof eaves, behind shutters or in sheds.

This risk from these insects increases towards the end of summer – it is preferable to destroy wasp nests earlier in the year before wasps become aggressive.
  How to Destroy Wasp Nests
To locate the nest, watch the flight path of returning wasps. If the nest is near the home, keep nearby windows closed. If you suspect the nest is in your attic or in a wall it is then almost always best to call a professional.

You may chose to use DIY products to destroy a wasp nest yourself if the nest is easily accessible. However, if you decide to destroy the nest yourself, follow all instructions carefully. Ensure that you minimize uncovered skin including wearing gloves and a hat. Treating at night is generally recommended because wasps are less aggressive then.

Do not attempt DIY treatment if you suspect you are sensitive to the sting of wasps, if the nest is indoors or the nest is inaccessible.

Do not treat a wasp nest when on a ladder or from a raised height unless you have bee proof clothing including a headnet.

Many wasps including yellow jackets frequently construct their nests below ground and when this happens they can be especially difficult to treat. Sometimes nests are below concrete slabs or piles of rock or vegetation. In these situations it can be difficult to treat the nest and activity will continue despite your repeated attempts at control. In these situations you may consider the assistance of a professional

Stinging insect swarms are dangerous – if in doubt get professional help.
  How to get rid of Bees
If honey bees have invaded your home then you have the added concern of honey left behind once a colony is eliminated. Sometimes secondary insects invade or the honey drips and comes through the wall. Considering bees are highly beneficial to the environment they should only be controlled when they pose a direct threat to your home or family.

If a bee nest represents a high risk (such as a nest in the home or a hospital or near those who are allergic to bee stings), It may be possible to remove the nest with the assistance of a beekeeper.

JA Pest Control will only destroy a bee nest or colony if it is considered a threat to people. When possible we will try to find a bee-keeper to remove the hive.

The Pest Guides section is designed to inform and educate you about a wide variety of pests around the world.
  Black Rat / Roof Rat – “The Climber”
Rattus rattus
  Appearance
33.5 – 45 cm in length, with a tail longer than the head and body.
200 – 225g in weight.
Pointed nose, large ears and a slender body when compared to the Brown Rat (Rattus norvegicus).
  Lifecycle
6 – 10 young per litter; 4 – 6 litters a year.
Gestation period of about 3 weeks.
2 – 3 months from birth to sexual maturity.
  Habits
Often climbs, crossing from one building to another via connecting cables.
Nesting in wall and roof voids. Out doors they may nest among vines and trees, but they seldom burrow..
Activity is mostly restricted to the indoors of premises and structures.
Preferred food is fruits and vegetables.
Will eat around 28g of food a day and drink 15 – 20 ml water.
  Brown Rat / Norway Rat – “The Burrower”
Rattus norvegicus
  Appearance
Up to 30 – 45 cm in length, with a tail shorter than the head and body.
350 – 500g in weight.
Blunt nose, small ears and a thicker body when compared to the Black Rat (Rattus rattus).
  Lifecycle
6 – 12 young per litter; 4 – 7 litters a year.
Gestation period of about 4 weeks.
2 – 3 months from birth to sexual maturity.
  Habits
Usually burrows, swims well, live outside and inside, nesting in various places. The only species to occur in sewers in Australia.
Preferred food is meats, fish, grains and almost anything(garbage).
Will eat around 28 – 85g of food a day and drink 20 – 30ml water.
  House Mouse – “The Invader”
Mus domesticus
  Appearance
15 – 20 cm in length, with a tail around the same length.
20g in weight.
Their relatively small feet & head, pointed nose and large eyes & ears distinguish them from a young brown rat (Rattus norvegicus).
  Lifecycle
5 – 6 young per litter; 6 – 10 litters a year.
Gestation period of about 3 weeks.
1 – 1.5 months from birth to sexual maturity.
  Habits
Usually they are very good climbers, jumpers and swimmers although they do not seem to swim very often.
Normally nests in wall voids, cupboards, roof voids, stored foods, furniture and many other locations.
Preferred food is grains, meats, fish, cereals and many other foods.
Will eat around 3g of food a day and can survive without any additional water. They will drink up to 1ml a day if their diet is particularly dry.

The Australian Standard AS4349.3 2010, Inspection of Buildings recommends a competent pest inspection at least on an annual basis and in some cases more frequent depending on the environment and the type of structure.

Termites are considered to be the most destructive insect pests in the world. Many buildings
  Subterranean Termites
e.g. Coptotermes spp.
  Appearance
3/16″-3/8″ in length
Soldiers: White, broad bodies with a brown head.
  Lifecycle
Queens can lay several thousands of eggs in one day.
The king remains only slightly bigger than an average termite and continues to mate with the queen for life.
Males in ant colonies die immediately after mating, unlike termite male alates, which become kings and live with the queen.
  Habits
Nests are built in the soil and these termites are very dependent on soil for moisture.
In their search for food, subterranean termites construct mud tubes because they are susceptible to desiccation when exposed to air.
Subterranean termites usually work their way above ground to reach wood or any other cellulose source. The cellulose is then broken down into simple starch with the help of protozoans in the termites’ gut.
  Inspection Benefits:
Correct identification of invasive termite species – helps to choose the most relevant control methods required.

Early detection – leads to prompt action and a faster control solution to your problem. Reduce costs of repairs to damaged areas early.

Regulated inspection – all our inspections are carried out in accordance with Australian Standards 3660. All areas of your home will be checked for signs of activity, including outdoor areas in the yard and any other nearby suspected locations.

Comprehensive report – a full written report is provided with recommendations on the best solution for your individual situation. If no termites are found, JA Pest Control is able to provide advice on future prevention tips.
  Termite Prevention
Almost every Australian home may be at risk of termites, but do not lose hope. The fight against this damaging pest is not yet lost.

The good news is we have several methods to help protect your building or structure against termites. These include:
  Chemical Termite Barriers
By the time termites are found, it’s probably already too late. Termite infestations are not easy to spot and they can do incredible amounts of damage. Preventative measures can provide a “safety bubble” for your home.
  What is a chemical termite barrier?
A chemical termite barrier involves applying a liquid chemical to the soil, either under concrete flooring or around the entire perimeter of your home’s foundations. Our Termite Control Technicians are trained to take care of your home, working with you to create an effective barrier with the minimum disruption to your home and its surroundings.
  Who should use a chemical barrier?
A chemical barrier is suitable for most people who want to take steps towards protecting their home from termite infestations. Other termite barriers have to be put in place while construction is taking place, but a chemical barrier has the advantage that it can be implemented at any time.
  Types of chemical barrier

There are various types of chemical termite barriers, for example some chemicals are designed to kill the termites and others are designed to deter them. The life expectancy of a chemical barrier ranges from 5 to 10 years, depending on which product is used.

Every termite situation is different, so choosing the right type of termite chemical barrier for you is very important.
  Physical Termite Barriers
It is estimated that termites destroy more homes in Australia than all natural disasters combined. Even a building slab built to Australian Standards can sometimes crack, allowing termites to enter your home from beneath, undetected.
  What is a physical termite barrier?
A physical termite barrier is a layer underneath the slab of your home. It comes in wide sheets which are laid in the same way as a moisture layer before the slab is poured. The sheets in a barrier are overlapped, sealed with adhesive and taped down with a quality cloth tape.
  Who should use a physical barrier?
There may be value in installing a physical termite barrier if:

you are building your new home
you are building a new extension to your home.
The physical termite barrier is long-lasting and will remain in place, protecting your property without the need to continually top it up with additional chemicals.

Reticulation System
  What is a reticulation system?
The reticulation system is a network of underground pipes designed to distribute an anti-termite chemical evenly throughout your home’s foundations. Using precise control of the chemical flow, this system helps to protect against invasion by termites which would otherwise enter from the outside of your home.
  Who should use the reticulation system?
There may be value in installing a reticulation system if:

you have been assessed as living in a high risk area
you are building a new home.
  How do I maintain my reticulation system?
Chemical levels in the reticulation system should be topped up every three to five years in order to maintain their effectiveness.
  Call JA Pest Control at 0422 909 982 to find out more.
  How To Prevent Termites
How can I prevent termites in my home? This is a frequently asked question by homeowners.

We understand that you will want to do everything in your power to protect your home against termites and any other pest.

Our practical tips below will help to show you that even a little effort can go a long way towards guarding your home.
  Tips
Remove stored timber, debris and cellulose materials from under, in and around the property and under the house.
Storing timber against or under your house or property on a soil sub-floor, will provide an attractive food source and nesting site for subterranean termites. It can also hide evidence of termites invading your home. Remove any timber and/or debris (dead leaves) away from the house.
Repair leaking taps and pipes.
These include leaking taps, pipes and hot water overflow pipes under or around your home. Repairing these will reduce moisture levels, which attract subterranean termites to nest close to or under your property.

Ensure that vents to sub-floor areas are never blocked.
Substandard ventilation in the sub-floor areas of your property will result in high humidity, and high moisture levels. Good ventilation and extraction fans where necessary are essential to reduce the risk from subterranean termites.

Divert all hot water services & air conditioning overflows away from side of house.
Ensure storm water run off is properly connected.
Use only termite treated timber in garden beds, retaining walls or fence posts.
Do not use untreated timbers to form garden beds or retaining walls, as these will attract termites around your property.

Construct timber fences and support posts with a 50mm clearance between the timbers and the soil.
Often the bases of timber fence palings and/or sub-floor timbers breach the soil surface. This allows termites access without detection. Galvanised post shoes that elevate the timber off the ground are available from any good hardware store.

Don’t allow climbing plants or bushy gardens to grow against the structure.
Climbing plants growing against the side of the structure of your property provide termites with entry undetected. The roots of some plants can also penetrate the foundations of your property allowing termites access that is very difficult to locate. Allow at least a 30cm clearance. Plant trees that are notorious for sending roots under slabs well away from your home.

Remove dead trees or stumps.
Dead trees and stumps are ideal sites for termites to nest in. Remove these or have them treated to reduce the risk to your property.

Ensure that termite shielding is not damaged or breached in any way.
Metal strips or ant caps around the foundation of your home do not prevent termite entry but force termites out into the open where they can be detected with regular inspection.

Be aware: Building alterations or additions can alter or render ineffective previous termite protection.
Adding a pergola, new awnings or veranda, concrete slab extensions, or even new plumbing can provide a route of entry for termites into the property across the termite protection barrier previously applied.

Where a house is a concrete slab on ground construction, Australian Standards state that you should leave a minimum of 75mm of slab edge exposed.
Weep holes in between brickwork, found immediately above the slab, should also be left exposed. If you construct gardens, allow soil to be deposited above the edge of the slab, or above pavers over the slab face, otherwise termites can gain entry undetected into your property and breach the previously applied termite barriers.

Ensure all form work timber is removed after construction.
Termites can often attack formwork and use it to gain access into your home.

Your first step should be to arrange a thorough inspection of your property to confirm their presence.

JA Pest Control will check your property both inside and out and will be able to quickly confirm if you have an infestation of termites or another pest.
  How Can I Prevent Termites Coming Back?
If you have been unlucky enough to experience termites in your home, you will be very keen to ensure you don’t have to deal with them ever again.

Whilst no-one can fully guarantee that you will never have a termite problem, there are some steps you can take to reduce the chance of their return.

Call JA Pest Control today on 0422 909 982 for more advice about termite prevention or to arrange an inspection.
  Termite Treatment
Did you know that termites can devalue a home by more than 25%?

If you find your home under attack by the destructive nature of termites, you want someone you can trust to quickly restore the comfort and safety in your home.

Our Termite Treatment Plans are the best way to take action in defending your home against a termite attack. We will recommend a specific solution that best suits your home.

Physical treatments are designed to force termites out into the open so that they are more easily detected. Chemical treatments create a barrier or treated zone around your building or structure to prevent termites from gaining access.

In-Ground Termite Monitoring & Baiting
This plan involves the use of unobtrusive termite bait stations, which are placed around the perimeter of your property to detect termites.

We will routinely monitor these stations for termite activity and when detected, bait is added to the system.

The termites consume the bait and take it back to the nest therefore infecting and eliminating the colony.

Any increased termite activity means that we will automatically increase their visits to ensure optimum protection of your home.
  Benefits:
All In-Ground Termite Monitoring solutions include Year Round Protection Plan. We visits your home to monitor the termite stations.

You’ll have the ultimate protection from termites and the other pests that threaten your home and family!
  What you need to know:
Installation of in-ground monitoring and baiting stations may require holes to be created in concrete and paving.
Above Ground Baiting
If termite activity is found, an above ground baiting solution can be used. Above ground bait stations are placed on termite activity within the home or other structures. The termites consume the bait and take it back to the nest, therefore infecting and eliminating the colony.

The bait inside the stations is highly palatable to termites but nontoxic to pets and children.
  What you need to know:
The baiting stations are placed directly at the location of termite activity. This may be within your home or in the garden.
  DO I STILL NEED INSPECTIONS IF I HAVE A TREATMENT IN PLACE?
Yes, is the short answer.

You may have had a prevention system pre-installed into your home, or you may be looking to have a new termite prevention barrier introduced. In either case, routine inspections by us are the perfect way to compliment the all-round protection of your termite barrier.

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